How to Contour and still look natural.

 

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Lately, I have had a lot of requests on how to do contouring. I wanted to show you a simple way to softly sculpt your face.

Thank you to the lovely Kwasi, for being my model! xx

  • Before you begin contouring, it is important to prep your skin with a good moisturiser. You cannot blend if you have a dry skin to start with! (I like Dr Hauschka’s Rose Day cream light and Dermalogica’s skin smoothing cream.)
  • Smooth on your favourite BB cream or foundation. I used very little foundation, (Chanel Vitalumiere in Clair 20) on Kwasi, because her skin is already quite flawless.
  • Contouring is playing with light. You are using a light colour to reflect light and bring forth parts of the face, like your cheekbones. Your dark colour is creating shadow and depth. You will need a minimum of two colours, I used three.
  • One shade should be a couple of shades lighter than your skin tone. The other one/ two are darker shades. Avoid colours that are too orangey, that is just never a good look.
  • I prefer working with cream/ stick foundation because ‘a little goes a long way’ and it is easy to blend. Powders tend to dry out your skin and can look blotchy. I used Bobbi Brown foundation stick in ‘Warm Ivory’ (as my highlight colour) & ‘Golden’ and ‘Almond’ as my darker shades.
  • My Favourite brush to blend and contour with, is M·A·C brush 130. You really need to buff the product into the skin and this brush is so soft and gentle.
  • REMEMBER: You can always add colour! It’s harder to take colour away. When you are contouring for the first time, start with less and build it up!

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1.

  • I placed my lightest colour: down the centre of Kwasi’s face; under her eyes and above her cheekbones.
  • A 5mm wide, stripe of the  darkest shade, goes under her cheek bone.
  • The 2nd darkest shade goes on either side of her chin in a triangle shape; under the cheekbones and above the brows. If you’d like to slim down your nose you can place some dark foundation on either side of your nose.

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  • Using the M·A·C  brush, blend and buff the dark foundations first.
  • Use small circular movements in the areas where you have painted dark foundation, until everything is blended well and creates a subtle shadow.
  • Don’t forget to work the colour into your hairline. Blondes have to be careful here because it’s easy to colour your hair. Sometimes it helps to mix a teeny bit of moisturiser and your exact foundation to help you blend perfectly.

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3.

  • Make sure there is no more dark foundation on your brush by wiping with a tissue.
  • Begin to buff your highlighting colour into your skin. Use your fingertips to smooth out the inner corners under your eye.

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4.

  • For extra effect, you can smooth a highlighting shimmer cream, (like Benefit’s ‘High Beam’), along the top of the cheekbones.
  • Set your look with a light dusting of sheer powder with a large fluffy brush!

PS. You can do your eye makeup before or after your contouring. I prefer to do it before, then you don’t have to worry about eyeshadow dropping on your perfectly contoured face!

If you have any special requests or questions, let me know! Happy experimenting! xB

Author: Bernice Dodd

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